A-COLD-WALL* Pre-Fall 2023 explores complex materials and intricate finishes, finding new expression for established menswear codes. A progressive design language informs print, logo and silhouette - adaptability and quiet function core tenets of this transitional collection.

Twill weave cotton with a distinctive soft hand feel becomes a backdrop for the season’s vintage canvas patches, a fresh take on logo. Alongside 5-panel headwear and a utilitarian cargo pant - the flagship Ando Work Shirt, an experiment in shaping and silhouette with its asymmetric seams and off-centre hems. Hand-distressed surfaces and tactile raw edges lend garments a timeworn feel, each imbued with an imagined history.  

Colour theory underpins this series of saturated tones, soft brushed back jersey given a unique garment wash for a worn-in appearance. Minimal bracket embroidery and raw edges deliver texture and embellishment across matching separates, from lounge pants to zip-up hoodies, experimental dye techniques used throughout.

The ACW* graphic programme deepens this season, an ongoing dialogue between surface and print, dense loopback cottons and single jersey become the starting point for an exploration into mark-making. Imagery and pattern nod to the arts, from abstract photographic prints to bold painterly brushstrokes, while the architectural references pay homage to mid-century modernism.

Proposing a set of versatile wardrobe basics, Seasonal Essentials spotlights pared back top layers in single jerseys and dense loopback cottons. Logo appears in two forms: an oversized plastisol print with a translucent gel overlay and a simple, unadorned bracket embroidery, fits relaxed and ready to layer.

Knitwear receives a set of advanced colour treatments and washes for Pre-Fall. Intense tones merge and fade across extra-fine merinos and ribbed wool blends, tactile surfaces punctuated by logo patches and bracket embroidery. Gently draped crewnecks and wide knit cargo pants provide pairing options, contemporary knitwear proposed as easy-wear lounge layers.

Adaptable silhouettes crafted from tech fabrics feature adjustable hardware for maximum versatility, while bonded high-pile fleece, 3D pocket overshirts and two-way zip layers provide secure storage.  A diverse layering programme designed to react across multiple environments, each garment places focus on practicality and movement, a selection defined by discreet detail.

An all-navy capsule spotlights craft and hand skill across a range of tactile natural fabrics. Heavyweight Melton wool, supple leather patches, textured applique lettering, brushed twills and densely applied embroidery nod to traditional techniques, outerwear and legwear following suit with silhouettes inspired by staples of traditional American sports and workwear.

Designed to tackle shifting conditions, certified white duck down retains heat and provides volume across three silhouettes offering multiple levels of warmth. The lighter Stratus Gilet and Puffer utilise a bonded nylon for durability while a gloss finish high-density Alto Puffer proposes heavyweight quilted protection across a robust silhouette.

The basketball hi-top reimagined, Luol makes its debut for Pre-Fall 2023, a classic silhouette constructed from carefully crafted materials. Tactility provided by a custom scratched coated leather, developed by Ecco, alongside raw edge stitching, maximum support at the ankle allows for all-day wear, precise comfort delivered specifically where required.